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Balancing a Dob?

Started by auriga, 04/10/2005 03:57AM
Posted 04/10/2005 03:57AM Opening Post
Hello, all,
I have a Starmaster 11 ELT 4.55 with Zambuto and it is great, I love
it. My only problem so far is with balance. I use a Paracorr all the
time, as Rick recommends, and a 31 Nagler or a 20mm Nagler Type 2
(they weigh about the same) and I balance the scope by haning one or
two ankle weights, each weighing 1 lb 7 oz, on the handles of the
mirror box, as Rick recommends. The scope balances fine. All is great
so far.
When I use much lighter eyepieces, such as a 12 Nagler Type 2, or
expecially a 9 or 7 Nagler Type 6, I use a Tele Vue Terminagler brass
2 inch to 1.25 inch adapter, which is heavy. This equalizes the weight
to that of the heavy 2 inch eyepiees without the adapter. All is still
great. The scope is still in perfect balance once the new eyepiece is in.
While I change eyepieces, between any two eyepieces, the trouble
occurs. With one hand I remove the Tele Vue eyepiece (with or without
the adapter, as appropriate), and with my other hand I insert the new
eyepiece, not so easy with Tele Vue underslung eyepiece barrels
without disturbing the scope, but I am getting skillful at this. No
problem at all, except that the scope moves a great deal as soon as an
eyepiece is removed before I can insert one of equal weight.
My solution to this is simple: with my third hand I steady the scope.
The only problem with my simple and elegant solution is that I
discover that I have only two hands.
Any suggestions to keep the scope from moving while changing
eyepieces? (On my old scope, and on my Compact Precision Scope, I have
an altitude lock I use while changing eyepieces, which solves the
problem entirely but the SM has no provision for this.)
How do you people solve this problem?
Thanks,
Bill Meyers





Posted 04/10/2005 06:14AM #1
Hello Bill,
You could just increase the stiction on the Alt bearing. This would hold it while you change EPs. There are many ways of doing this, with one of the easiest being to add a piece of Velcro, loop side in between the Teflon bearing. This will increase friction slightly. The other way would be additional Teflon, but the Velcro or even thick felt, is easier and non-permanent. You could use cork or any material that is thick enough to rub against the Ebony Star. You could try it and see if it helps, if not it is easy enough to remove without any damage to the scope.

[SIZE="Large"][/SIZE][COLOR="Blue"][/COLOR] Floyd Blue grin
Amateur Imager
Posted 04/10/2005 02:18PM #2
Hi Bill
I have the SM11"f5.4 and I had simular issues with the 2" 26t5 to the 13t6. I solved this with technique, kinda like a slight of hand movement. I remove the large eyepiece with my left hand, thumb and tree fingers and just keep my left pinky in contact with the focuser just enough to steady it, then carefully insert the next eyepiece with my right hand (thumb and three fingers holding the eyepiece and adapter and pinky on the focuser) all in one fluid motion. With a bit of practice it becomes automatic and fluid and the target stays centered except for normal rotation across the FOV.
Changing 2" to 2" or 1.25" to 1.25" in not a issue for my setup.
Hope this helps
Buck