Posts Made By: Alex McConahay

Another article in today's TIme magazine covering the Intelligent Design topic. Among other things there is a quote by a supporter of ID saying essentially that Bush's comments were premature. The ID community, I gathered, wanted more time to create doubt about the theory of evolution before they insisted that ID be taught.

Alex

The stock focuser was pretty tall.

The replacement Crayfords are comparatively short.

This means you will need to move your mirror further down the tube (toward the back of the tube). Luckily, this is fairly easily accomplished--at least in my experience with a 10 inch Starfinder EQ. I heard the dob mounts were different, but I could not tell you exactly how. In an EQ version, one just drills three more holes a little further back (actually, as far further back as the new focuser is shorter than the old--and that varies with just what you need in your own eyepieces), and re-bolts the cell lower. THere was enough room to handle this on my mount.

The secondary did not need changing, as far as I could tell.

Alex

Ron,

Are you confusing screen pixel size with picture size?

Is Elements saving at 640 x 480 as you specified?

Then it is doing all it can (You can ask it to save at higher number of pixels, but it is just making stuff up if it does.)

On the other hand, the 72dpi is normally your screen resolution (or maybe up to 96 or so) generally. This is fixed at any given windows setting you are using on your monitor. It has nothing to do with the picture size.

Alex

Yes, the Naglers cost a lot. But so can the Meades. You get what you pay for. Naglers are not three times the cost of the Meades--at least the Meade 5000, SWA. Actually, if you check carefully, Meade Instruments sell a series of eyepieces that are almost as expensive, and almost as good (some would say better) as the Naglers. In short, there are various levels of eyepieces quality and field of view. For Meade Super Wide Angle, and Nagler 82 degree, you are paying a lot more than you would for the less expensive Meade or Televue Plossl's. (And Meade also sells various grades of Plossl's for various prices.)

Now, whether you need these other accessories depends on your experience, eyes, scope, and so forth.

On an SN10, I think you have a relatively longer focal ratio. SO, the top quality eyepieces are not as important as they might be with a 4.5 Focal Ratio.

I would suggest that whether you really need them or any of the other accessories you have seen depends more on your personality than anything else (Some people "need" whatever is the latest and have three of everything. Some people don't worry about it at all and have aperfectly lovely time at the scope.) Furthermore, I would suggest that the best way to find out if you need something is to hang around your local star parties with more experienced users and see what they have that you might find useful.

Alex

Duh, How about Anacortes--You know, the guys who sponsor this site--

Alex

I didn't use to do anything.

But last year I was visiting Romania, and I was out observing, and I fell asleep, and a crazy dog came and bit me.

Now, every full moon I get in a nasty mood and sit around all night shaving.

Alex

Robert,

It is hard to answer that question without knowing where you are starting.

Do you have any camera already?
Have you taken solar photos already?
How much are you willing to carry when you travel?

My buddies who know how to take eclipse photos (and they are very good, having been published in Sky and Tel, etc.) have really thought out their equipment. They have small driven mounts, DSLR cameras, and short refractors. They use Remote releases. And they practice before the show. They think out all their exposures, and consider just what kind of shots they want.

I am not so proficient. I limited myself last April to a Canon 20D, a Canon 750-300 zoom, a Tamron doubler, a Baader filter, remote cable, A Varimagni viewfinder, an LCD viewfinder shield, and a photo tripod.

A big issue is just how much you want to carry.

I would suggest that you get out in the backyard and practice some, and then come back and ask more specific questions.

And another thing--you posted to about a half dozen forums. That is okay, I guess if you like. But if you do get responses, you have to chase them in half a dozen places. You might be better to stick to one place to ask your quesitons.

Get back ot us here. I have more suggestions, but I don't want to be wasting your time with what you already know.

Essentially, I have to say that most of eclipse photography is really just plain old solar photography. But during the seconds of totality, it is daylight photography, where you are looking for different levels of exposure (to be stacked together to get one image with much greater exposure latitude). ANd during the annular phase, you have a lot more regular solar photography than you might have expected.

Alex

Here's another question for experienced eclipse photographers:


Does a camera system focus at exactly the same place regardless of whether you have your solar filter on or off.

Namely, at second contact, I pop the filter off and take unfiltered pictures until third contact--when I pop it back on. Do I have to worry about focus shift?

I will probably be using Baader solar film, but is there a different answer for focus shift with a Coronado Solar Filter?

Alex

Maurice--No excuses for leaving us alone--You know the internet does go to Australia!!!

You just have to get used to the letters being all upside down.

Alex

At 28 mm, things are very forgiving. On the other hand, you will not get much more than very wide field views at 28 mm.

There are two different 30 second limitations you need to think about. One is the tracking issue. You will need a driven mount. Almost any will do at 28 mm. But be prepared to go to a very good mount (costing in the 800-1000 dollar range at least) if you plan to use the 300 mm end of the zoom. And if you go any longer, and want good results, you will need to go to a mount costing even more than that.

The other 30 second limitation you have to think about is the one that says the 20D's top exposure time is only 30 seconds. So, you need something that will run it on bulb. Your two choices are the two canon remote controls. (You cannot handhold the shutter button, because you will shake the camera.)

Of course, you could do a lot with star trails.

ALex