Astromart

November 2, 2003 06:15 PM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Solar System

Sun shots - Ido.

Nice shots Ido, keep them comming.

Robert.

November 8, 2003 01:39 AM Forum: Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing

Camera Settings and Shutter Times for Eclipse

I shoot Prime focus with a C8 and 6.3 R/C and just use the cameras light meter in the early partial phases. This will expose the bright side correctly (you can bracket the shots as well. When it gets closer to total is when you need to start fudging you exposure times and it depends on if you want the bright side correctly exposed or the dark side. Once in totality (spelling??) my exposures can vary any where from about 3-20 seconds. I depends on focal ratio (F10 or F6.3) and how bright of an eclipse it is.

See attached pic, this is from the one earlier this year?

Hope this helps some,
Robert W.

November 10, 2003 03:43 AM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Solar System

R136

Posted By Robert Watters

Excellent image Steven. Really has a 3D illusion.

Robert W.

November 25, 2003 12:23 AM Forum: Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing

M-31 and Surprise

Posted By Robert Watters

After comparing your image to a chart of the same image scale and orientaion I think Christopher is right.

When Roland comes back from vacation you'll have to give him a call and find out why you have the blue halo around the star, something must be out of whack.

Robert W.

November 28, 2003 07:22 PM Forum: Equipment Talk

Autoguiding with the Fastar 8/Celestar 8 Deluxe

Posted By Robert Watters

Well, I tried with limited success with a C8 Deluxe. Too much vibration due to any (and I mean ANY) breeze. The periodic error was basically to much or to sharp of a curve for the ST-4 to keep up with. I had much better luck guiding by hand because you can ignore the vibrations to where the auto-guider will not and just goes crazy trying to correct them. It can be done but I probably had a bad (or normal) sample for the drive. Life is too short and I didn’t feel like fighting it every time out so I bought a G11 and have never looked back.

Robert W.

December 13, 2003 11:39 PM Forum: Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing

Newbie Question

Posted By Robert Watters

Hi Michael,
Actually it is better to scan the negative because that is the original and the original has the most data. You must scan at a much higher resolution (2000 DPI and up) verses 300-600 for a print which usually means you have to scan with a dedicated negitive scanner. If you scan a print you are scanning from a copy of the original plus it has been blown up, ie less resolution. Your developer can also mess up the color, brightness, etc. on the print.

There is probably many more reasons but I hope this covers the basics.

Robert W.

December 26, 2003 08:47 PM Forum: Digital SLR AstroPhotography

Canon G3

Posted By Robert Watters

Based on my experience with a 30mm Celestron Ultima I would say the 40mm setup would be the way to go. I've attached a daytime pic using my G3 at full optical zoom (4x) and the above mentioned eyepiece and you can still see some vignetting. I plan on eventually getting the Scopetronix setup so I'm curious to see some pics using this setup as well.

Robert W.

December 27, 2003 07:51 PM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Solar System