Posts Made By: Edward Wiley

Doug: I am a beginner at digital photography. I went the CCD route with a used SBIG ST237A and I use only 35mm lenses to simplify alignment and guiding requirements. I picked the ST237A because SBIG makes a great camera and has mature software support; and I could pick up a camera for around $600. I already had a good mount (Losmandy G-8) and I wanted specifically to try the CCD route. However, if you want to go really widefield, then a Digital Rebel may be the way to go as my max FOV is something on the order of 4x5 degrees with the 50mm lens. Widefield with a CCD chip the size of a Canon D20 or XT is going to cost lots of cash.

Ed Wiley

Many thanks to all who responded. It's a 1980s original Tele Vue 2.5 barlow and looks good. Based on feedback, I will keep both.
Clear skies, Ed

Here is an unusual shot of 17P/Holmes taken with a spectrographic filter on 27 October. The comet is the round object, the spectrum is the elongate "tail." Taken remotely using Global-Rent-A-Scope 15" Astrograph located in Israel from my home in Kansas. Stack of 10-10 Second integrations. We will be processing the spectrographs as we take more images.
Clear skies, Ed Wiley
Remote Astronomical Society

Jeanna: I saw one post about buying time for imaging. You might look at Global Rent-A-Scope. Great outfit, and you take the pictures yourself. I do my scope photography through them and save the "under the skies" experience for visual enjoyment with my dobsonian. But I also do piggyback work. Its not fussy.

As for imaging yourself: my advice is to learn the sky visually, using what you have (eyes, scope) and a pair of binoculars. Join a local club and participate in things like completing observing lists. At the same time, you can take some interesting sky shots with a digital camera mounted on a tripod. I have a Canon XT and have had a blast taking 30 second shots of more northern constellations. (30 seconds is the limit before trailing IF you are well north, try that on Orion and you get significant star trails.) Pick up Jerry Lodriguss' CD (Photoshop centered) and Michael Covington's book. You will be amazed at what you can do with 30 second shots!

Once you move out of simple constellation shots you really need an good mount. My piggyback outfit consists of a Losmandy G8, a Celestron 104 F/5 for guiding and my camera. But, you are looking at $1000+ for the G8 and $500+ for the camera. So, think hard about all the fun you can have with visual work and the snapshots. Years worth...

Joe: I have not had that problem with my reader or XTi. Very nice pictures. I assume it is a modified version of the XTi. I haven't modified mine but do use Zuiko lenses. Question to you: Do you find that infinity on the Zuiko is spot focused? This is true of my 28mm and 200mm but my 50mm had donuts, which lead me to believe that a Zuiko will either work or not work depending on individual lens variations. Your thoughts appreciated.

Ed

Gary: just saw your post. I use a Canon XSi with "old" Zuiko SLR lenses. They are relatively inexpensive but require an adapter. I have 28mm, 59mm, 135mm and 200mm, none costing me over $100. Very sharp. I have also used an XT. None of my cameras are modified. See attached image for a XT piggyback 28mm shot with a "fog" lens to pick out the bright stars. Note that I put all my money into the mount (Losmandy G8) and camera, hardly any into the scope (piggyback off a Celestron 106 F5).
Ed

There is another try, this time with the black point and white pint set an a bit more sky. It still need more subs, but I think I am making progress.
Ed

Inge: I am also a visual observer but I love to play with the photos (nothing serious like some of the masters whose stuff you see around here). I have a Losmandy G8, a WO 66, a used DSI ProI and a Canon DSLR with old but nice Zuiko 35mm slr lenses (none over $75). I set up my Losmandy, carefully aligning, put the Canon on the WO66 and shoot a bunch of 2-5 minute shots (bunch = 30 or more). If its the 200mm telephoto, I guide for longer exposures (2 minutes is usually OK unguided), if its the 28mm widefield I don't guide. I can also use the WO66 and use the DSI and a telephoto lens to guide. I also have a 6"SN, but haven't tried that yet.

While the pictures are being taken I check in from time to time, but mostly I am using my dob to see stuff. Watching photos being taken, for me, is about as exciting as watching grass grow once everything is setup correctly.

Most important: A good mount. Mine is good but I keep the load very light. Minimum investment: once you get a good used mount the rest is relatively painless.

Minimum-minimum: A tripod and digital camera at something like 28mm, point at Cassiopeia and take a 30 second shot. Amazing what you can see. The try the same thing at M45. There will be trailing, but the effect is kind of nice. Hooked me!

Ed

Daniel:

As an academic, I suggest that your daughter follow the standard in her field. If her professors use Macs, the she should use a Mac. Otherwise, she will not be "in step" with her peers and professors.

That said, I use CS3 on a PC XP system and an open source program on Linux. BUT, I am not studying to be a professional photographer. If I was and Macs were the standard, I would buy a Mac. Follow the standard of the field even if the point is debatable and the down payment is $2,000+. Compared to a successful career, it isn't that much money.

Ed

I am impressed, nice image with a zoom!
Ed