Gianluca Valentini said:
........so I had some problems starting with the focus: I forgot to lock the focuser and I believe there has been a little sagging of the FSQ focuser since 2 of the 4 20min subexposures were slightly out of focus (could be a temperature change, but I doubt it, since when I refocused and locked the focuser everything went alright..........
I tried many different settings for sky flats (average at 20,30,40 and 50% of the saturation level............ but the images are awful after reduction (dark+flat). All flats are dark subtracted, but the color image turns out to be super grainy after I apply the flats................
Hi Luca,
First of all, your image looks pretty good as is. I'm sure Edith Piaf would approve.
You are progressing quickly.
As for focusing, do you have a motorised focuser, e.g. a RoboFocus? The critical focus zone of an FSQ is measured in microns since it is such a fast, f/5, scope. It is extremely difficult to focus an FSQ without being automated with a motor and using software to determine focus.
The FSQ is also famous for being sensitive to changes in temperature when focusing. Some people refocus their FSQ every change of 1-2 degrees C!
As for your flats, it is said that taking good flats is almost an art form.
If your sky flats are less than one minute long, don't subtract a dark from them. It will add more noise to your flat and is not needed in this instance. You will need to subtact a bias from your flats, though.
When making a flat, you should have at least 10-12 subexposures to get good results.
When making a bias, you should have at least 20-30 subexposures.
The best program that I have used for image calibration is CCDStack:
http://www.ccdware.com/products/ccdstack/
Image registration and data rejection algorithms are also excellent with this program.
I hope this helps,
dan