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Posts Made By: Darren Hiebert

January 17, 2005 12:52 AM Forum: Equipment Talk

Dew Advice

Posted By Darren Hiebert

Let me first offer a mini-lesson on humidity so that will help you understand the basics of condensation. Humidity is measured as a percentage of how much water vapor the air can hold at a given temperature. At 100% humidity, water starts to condense out of the air. As air cools, it can hold less water vapor because there is less heat energy available in the air to keep the water vaporized. Now, imagine you have a closed vessel containing air at 50% humidity. Now imagine dropping the temperature of the vessel. As the air cools, it is capable of holding less and less water vapor before it condenses out, whereas the total amount of water in the cooling air remains constant. Thus, the relative humidity starts to rise. As the temperature continues to drop, the humidity in the vessel will eventually reach 100% humidity and the water will start to condense out of the air onto cold surfaces. More and more water will condense out as the temperature keeps falling.

Now imagine that we drain off the condensed water and heat the air in the vessel back to its original temperature. Since much of the water was aready removed as condensation, there is now much less water present in the vessel than used to be exist. Thus, the relative humidity level in the vessel once it reaches its original temperature will be much less than the 50% it started with. This implies that capping the telescope prior to bringing it indoors will keep moisture away from the optics (much of the moisture already condensed out of that air when it was colder). As the trapped air heats, it will dry out considerably. This is why the air in a heated house gets very dry without a humidifier, and why grandma used to put a pan of water on top of the radiator.

Let us now itlook instead at what happens if we bring the telescope into a warm house without capping it first. We have a very cold mirror/lens that is suddenly exposed to warm air at perhaps 50% humidity. If we now cap the telescope trapping the warm, moist air of the house, the cold telescope (especially large heat sinks like optics and metal) will remove energy from the air and moisture trapped by the covers, thereby causing the moisture to condense on the cold surfaces. Further, because the telescope is now capped, this condensed moisture cannot escape as vapor as the telescope gradually warms back up. Once the telescope is brought into the house, the harm is already done and it is too late to cap it.

You should also be able to see why capping a telscope indoors, then taking it outdoors (or into a cold garage for storage) can result in condensed moisture being trapped inside the telescope.

Cooling air presents a condensation problem, not heating air. If we cap a telescope after bringing it indoors, the trapped warm air inside the telescope begins to cool and its relative humidity level begins to climb. But if we first cap (i.e. seal) the scope prior to bringing it indoors, the cold air from outside begins to warm and dry out.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
Darren

January 19, 2005 02:03 AM Forum: Eyepieces

Bolt-style cases for 24mm Panoptics

Posted By Darren Hiebert

I store my 24 Panoptics in the #5208 case (perfect fit) from ScopeStuff:
http://www.scopestuff.com/ss_cas1.htm

February 1, 2005 06:30 AM Forum: Equipment Talk

A real spider in my SCT tube

Posted By Darren Hiebert

And I always thought one of the arguments for a corrector plate was to avoid a spider ;-)

February 5, 2005 04:33 PM Forum: Binoviewers

Email from Denkmeier

Posted By Darren Hiebert

After spending much time during several calls on the telephone with Russ, both pre- and post-sale, I have to say that I have rarely found anyone as eager, friendly and helpful as Russ. I agree with Nils. Russ has a remarkable reputation. Being the only person on bad terms with such a person is not something to boast about. Furthermore, the airing of such a grievance in public in this manner seems to be serving an unstated agenda.

Regards,
Darren

March 6, 2005 04:04 AM Forum: Equipment Talk

High power with binoviewer in short refractor

Posted By Darren Hiebert

You can also call Denkmeier and ask for the high-power cell (part S), which gives a multiplier of 3.2 with the Power X Switch in its highest power setting.

March 15, 2005 02:44 AM Forum: Coronado-Lunt-DayStar Solar Filters

PST (Best EP ?)

Posted By Darren Hiebert

I have been using my Takahashi 7.5mm LE ED and it works very well with good eye relief and shows the entire sun with room to spare.

May 5, 2005 02:48 AM Forum: Equipment Talk

2" Autocoliimator

Posted By Darren Hiebert

Floyd Blue said:

I ... ordered one of the 2" Autocollimators from Jim Fry....

That's Jim Fly.

May 20, 2005 02:19 AM Forum: Equipment Talk

Is there a reason not to ship to an APO address?

Posted By Darren Hiebert

Where does one get an APO address? All I have is an old achromatic address! smile

January 12, 2006 03:36 AM Forum: Equipment Talk

Any Plettstone owners out there?

Posted By Darren Hiebert

Inge Skauvik said:

The Plettstone scopes seem to satisfy my demands of quality and portability. They are quite expensive, though. However it would be very interesting to have some comments from persons owning (or having tried) such a scope.

I was actually the first person to order a Plettstone telescope, just two years ago. I bought the 18" f/4.2. Overall, I am quite happy with the scope. It is quite portable; more portable than a friend's 16" Starmaster. The entire scope weighs approx. 110 lbs. with ServoCAT installed. For most of the minor shortcomings I provided feedback to Michelle about, so she has probably refined these by now. Your question is pretty open-ended, so if you could provide more specific questions, it would help better address what you want to know.

The scope always gets attention when I take it to star parties, which is nice if you like to show off your scope (or just meet new folks)!


I noticed that dew removing was not mentioned as an option on the Plettstone web site. What about this?

Michelle recommended the Protostar diagonal, which is available with a built-in dew heater, whose power is supplied through the spider vanes. It works well for me.

Darren